Icicle appoints Sabato De Sarno as creative
Shanghai-based luxury label Icicle has named former Gucci creative director Sabato De Sarno to lead its creative direction.
Shanghai-based luxury label Icicle has appointed Sabato De Sarno as its creative director. The designer, who left Gucci in February 2025 after nineteen months, will present his first collection for Autumn/Winter 2027-28, with products expected in stores in the second half of that year.
The appointment follows Kering's acquisition of a minority stake in Icicle's parent company, ICCF Group, in April 2025. The investment was made through Kering's House of Wonders initiative, which aims to support emerging luxury brands from new markets.
A philosophy of restraint
Founded in 1997 by Ye Shouzeng and Shawna Tao, Icicle operates over 200 stores, primarily in Mainland China, with a flagship in Paris. The brand is known for its use of natural materials like wool, silk, cashmere, and linen, and for an understated, logo-free aesthetic.
Industry analyst David Watts noted the irony of the move. "The man who diagnosed fashion’s ailments so candidly is now stepping back into the very system he critiqued," he said. De Sarno had previously been critical of the industry's focus on spectacle over substance.
De Sarno's design approach appears aligned with Icicle's existing identity. "I was drawn to Icicle by the deep alignment between its principles and my own creative philosophy," the designer said.
The commercial backdrop
Icicle has reportedly achieved double-digit compound annual growth in recent years. The brand's revenue surpassed 300 million euros last year.
This provides a specific commercial context for De Sarno's new role. His task is not to overhaul the brand's core identity but to build upon its established foundation of material-led, quiet luxury.
A shift in strategy
The move is part of a broader trend of Chinese fashion groups hiring European creative talent to boost global appeal. However, the Icicle appointment represents a significant shift in authority for the brand.
Unlike previous similar hires, De Sarno will have creative control over every product category. He will oversee Bénédicte Laloux, who has led Icicle's womenswear design from Paris since 2013 and will now report to him as design director for the women's show collection.
Watts concluded by questioning the long-term impact. "What is not yet clear is whether De Sarno brings his critique with him, or whether the machine simply absorbs another idealist."
